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They should start gassing up approximately 2 to 3 minutes after exposure. Have proper ventilation and use proper modern safety gear! Then, use a pair of tongs to carry the steel to a container filled with water or vegetable, and submerge the hot metal in the liquid. Follow the instructions. Old school smiths use something called washing soda to strip oil off guns. I can see my wife walking in and shaking her headabout as vigorously as when I asked if I could use the dishwasher to clean some tools. It will instantly vaporize into steam and splash all over you. 2mm wire has a circumference of ~0.25in. This article was co-authored by wikiHow staff writer. Youre a gunsmith who has a lot of nice guns! Fortunately, this is easily had at any hardware store: WD-40 is a water displacing product, not a lubricant (contrary to widespread advertising). February 20, 2016 at 16:12. BUT like so many power tools on guns, it is possible to create expensive screw-ups to fix on guns with power tools, and buffing wheels are no exception. Hunter holds a BFA in Entertainment Design from the University of Wisconsin - Stout and a Minor in English Writing. Thanks to all authors for creating a page that has been read 914,567 times. "name": "Shooting Mystery", I don't understand why you are submerging it in oil? Either of these two methods is called 'hot bluing'. To harden steel, start by heating the metal directly with a blow torch until it turns a cherry red color. Quenching the steel rapidly cools it so the alloys inside harden together. In comparison, rust, the red oxide of iron (Fe2O3), undergoes an extremely large volume change upon hydration; as a result, the oxide easily flakes off, causing the typical reddish rusting away of iron. You have a degreased gun, and now you need to get the metal hot enough that the reaction will oxidize the steel as much as possible. Next, suspend the components in a cleaning solution tank to get rid of dirt, oil, grease, and crud. For the chemical, the bluing solution should be either Oxynate No. You'll probably be fine following these instructions - you'll probably be OK driving home a little drunk, too. It cannot rust any further. Your tanks better be tight, your stands for the tanks better be rigid, youd better have top-of-the-line fire extinguishers (NB the plural) available to you. It is generally employed on smaller parts such as pins, screws, sights, etc. Can a softly tempered piece be re-tempered harder without going through the hardening procedure again? Besides those, you must also have water displacing oil and cleaning solution (Dicro-Clean 909). on Introduction, looks nice but you are using what is known as heat treatment which will darken steel, not using bluing salts as in gun bluing of rifle barrels all in all very nice instructable, Reply High temperatures and dangerous chemicals mean that a moment of carelessness can make you pay a heavy price. This process leaves a deep blue-black finish. "https://twitter.com/Shoot1ngMystery", This method was adopted by larger firearm companies for large scale, more economical bluing. Make sure to check every nook and cranny of the components so that you can find any discoloration or blemishes. Here is a video by Clevinger Customs illustrating it: I use the Brownells nitre blueing salts, which are a combination of sodium nitrite, sodium nitrate, and potassium nitrate. Also thanks DG! Pour in All tip submissions are carefully reviewed before being published. This signifies that the steel is tempered. Ill be saving this for the future. I didnt drop outta my mommas womb being able to do this stuff. *Potassium Nitrate is an oxidizer. I can't stress how important the degreasing step is! WHERE or when would the torch get used? You might also want to read our article on how to easily darken stainless steel or blacken stainless steel for more ways to personalize your gear. You work on nice guns! After that, slowly and steadily stir the solution in the tank to dissolve the salt. The mixed fumes of the acids produce a uniform rust on the surface of the parts (inside and out) in about 12 hours. Below is a link to a video I found on YouTube that shows the process. Youre just using stump remover to do it. Always back your paper when youre polishing over edges and up against features. Referring to the post that started all of this; Dyspeptic Gunsmith says: Im talking like 90+ minutes to heat the salt bath to 285F. Keep posting like this. The color is oxide, but I believe you can scrape it off. Ill go into parkerization later this week. the cost of the burners or heaters to heat up all these tanks really only practical if you have natural gas available Knowledge is the power and fear is the opposite of power it cripples the mind and the body and almost always guarantee's a poor decision will be made. Just remove the blue/rust, degrease, dry, then blue/card/boil-out/oil/drain. Dont scrub the solution onto the gun, just run a patch that is not dripping wet down one complete run on the barrel/action in one smooth stroke. But since this was my first project, with an inexpensive kit as a learning tool, and as I intend to do this again with a much more expensive kit, my trials and errors and your voice of experience will be very useful the next time around. Hopefully these concepts suggest caution and diligence for what you are doing. 5 years ago, I found that heating will turn steel silver ~> gold ~> violet ~> blue. Very helpful! So As one newish to refined firearms ownership, what is the best way to store and protect a pistol or rifle from rusting, especially in areas like Oregon or Washington, Silicon socks, or ? The rod was heated and the plate 2" square was inserted and the rod shrunk onto it. Gee, Im thinkin Duro or cero coat maybe even Krylon might be a good enough.. This finish allows them to be stored in high-moisture conditions, like sports bags, without rusting. Ferrari installs valve seats in their aluminum cylinder heads via robot. It is hazardous. A non-linear resistance property of the blued steel of razor blades, foreshadowing the same property later discovered in semiconductor diode junctions, along with the ready availability of blued steel razor blades, led to the use of razor blades as a detector in crystal set AM radios that were built by servicemen (as foxhole radios) or by prisoners of war during World War II.[8]. Its much cheaper anyways. They melt at, oh, somewhere about 280F. Dang it all. When putting water in your boil-out tank, use distilled water if you have water with high mineral content. Every true outdoorsmans dream! Cold blues will react with steel at room temperature, but you get more aggressive reactions when you heat the gun to, oh, 150 to 200F. To temper the steel so it isn't brittle, place it in an oven heated to 375 F for 3 hours, and then it let it cool overnight. Robert Farago is the former publisher of The Truth About Guns (TTAG). Itll evaporate rather rapidly, but still, dont whip it at cars or house finishes. I handed a buddy my wallet and cell phone, and stepped under the safety shower and got wet. 2 years ago Wipe them down with WD-40 on a regular basis. 3 years ago I hope to someday have good knowledge to pass on to people, heh. On another thread, we can go into nitre blueing, which is basically heating pins/screws/bits/bobs to 600F in a molten salt bath. One of the reasons I hand-polish up to 600 and buff only above that is that when you see one of my barrels (by holding it up to a light source, and sighting down the barrel from the muzzle at your eye to the breech out at arms length), you see no dips, waves, ripples, etc. Oil binds with the metal and prevent it from getting air/chemicals to corrode. Blue or Black rust is complete passivation of the steel surface Fe3O4. Only 3 left in stock - order soon. If you tempered the steel with a blow torch, set the metal on an anvil or another large steel surface to conduct the heat. Were committed to providing the world with free how-to resources, and even $1 helps us in our mission. Once you get the colour you want, go outside to your oil container and fully quench your object into the oil! Its for mild steel, which must be greased, oiled or otherwise coated with something to stop it from rusting almost immediately. If you want to blue something fast I have a cheap hot blue method: Lowes stump remover: This is a great source that you can learn lots of information from and I'll advise it to to a handfuls of others. This article has been viewed 914,567 times. Take them out after a couple of minutes and then wipe them clean to remove excess oil. Now, using the information above, you should have little problem bluing your firearms on your own. If you look at the temps that Tenifur(SP) and Melonite(sp) and early Pakerizing processes used this is nothing. You can improve your results by doing two things: 1. Fill a heat-safe container with water or oil deep enough to submerge your steel. Next wash your piece in your chosen degreaser for a minute or so to get rid of all grease/fingerprints that was on the metal. Ive dealt with strong acids and strong bases in lab work, and I fear the strong bases more. Woodworkers doing furniture finishing will use 000 and 0000 wool, and they hate oil on their wool for rubbing down oil finishes. Premium fencing blades are often offered with a blued finish. of the steel than do not even try this on something that is anything other than artistic in nature! Remove any previous finish. 5. Above you can see some example pictures of the colour shades that can be achieved with this techniques.Have fun doing it! Mess. Color case hardening is the predecessor of all metal coloring typically employed in the firearms industry. Because so many people are trying to do this sort of thing on the cheap, thats when I start thundering in my warnings about safety. At 700, you start losing your blues and the steel starts becoming a wispy silvery-blue, not a dark brilliant blue. Safety notes: Dont use an aluminum pan. New guns are typically available in blued finish options offered as the least-expensive finish, and this finish is also the least effective at providing rust resistance, relative to other finishes such as Parkerizing or hard chrome plating or nitriding processes like Tenifer. It is slightly caustic, so be careful you dont leave it on the gun for long. You need to constantly be adding in a bit of water to bring the boiling point back down into the range you need. The parts are then boiled in distilled water, blown dry, then carded, as with rust bluing. It, too, must be oiled to provide any significant rust resistance. Larger flames produce less heat while smaller flames produce a higher heat. Various processes are used for the oxidizing process. At the end of this heating process the crucible is removed from the oven and positioned over a bath of water with air forced through a perforated coil in the bottom of the bath. While the rod may heat some by conduction, it wouldn't get hot enough to start the color-forming process. What I forgot to mention in all of this is a detail that seems mundane, but it critically important: Wear cotton gloves. kitty litter (I would recommend the unused variety). Youll get a dark spot right there. You can not do this method with Aluminium because it won't reach the temperatures required for bluing, it will just melt. Its nice when something can be re-used a time or two, especially when used in diversified ways. Examples of this finish are common on older pocket watches whose hands exhibit what is called 'peacock blue', a rich iridescent blue. COPYRIGHT 2021, THETRUTHABOUTGUNS.COM. The inside barrel was saved by the fact it was so full of lead fouling. And then there is the difference between general care and storage vs available daily carried protection pistols living in a some sort of Holster (nylon or leather) , good, bad, take them out or leave them in? Bluing is often a hobbyist endeavor, and there are many methods of bluing, and continuing debates about the relative efficacy of each method. "Bluing" is the process of oxidizing steel to create a durable, corrosion-resistant layer. Thanks for always being so willing to share, Sir. Turn the heat on and give a good regular stirring until it gets very hot and starts to steam. Where/how did you think I got to the point I could make nice guns? Alternatively, You could store them in a hard case (like a pelican with a purge) and throw some desiccant packs in there as well. If cold bluing is the only practical option, the area should be kept oiled to extend the life of the coating as much as possible. Isn't the point of the acetone to degrease, why would i grease? : Make sure it is made from Mild Steel or Titanium. Just dont do it. Even a fingerprint will affect the consistency of the colour. If the solution is still boiling vigorously, then you can expect the bluing to happen naturally. highfour, case hardening is a bit different from what you describe.. Usually, the steel needs some time in a medium that will allow carbon to penetrate the surface, and we are talking 15 minutes to several hours. Nowadays, even mild steel does have a certain amount of carbon in the alloy, which can explain your observations, if you google "super quench," you should find a waterbased quench that is rumoured to do the same, but in my humble opinion, water can do just that as well. Ok you gotta help me out herewhen I was studying mechanical engineering a good few years back a project I done involved using a compression fit of 1/4" thick plate steel into 1" thick steel rod, both mild steel. By the time I was done it looked like it was a beat up 5 year old gun rather than a 1930s bolt .22 that came from a scrap yard. Its oiled in production to keep it from rusting on store shelves. Initially case hardening was used but did not offer any aesthetics. The "hot" process is an alkali salt solution using potassium nitrite or sodium nitrate and sodium hydroxide, referred to as "traditional caustic black", that is typically done at an elevated temperature, 135 to 155C (275 to 311F). If you drop a piece of paper in there, or hydrocarbon compounds (like oil or grease on your part). Add the two together and you have what is akin to rocket fuel in your face a way of oxidizing almost any organic material with insufficient water for cooling into a furious flame. OK, now with the sights out and the trigger group off, you can put on the rust/blue remover on the barrel/action. At least one of the cold bluing solutions contains selenium dioxide. I am simply trying to learn anything and everything that there is to know about it. When youre using hot blueing salts, youd better be on top of your game, or you can seriously injure yourself. 99. The easier of the two methods, hot bluing only requires some degreasing agent, a heating apparatus (a blow torch is perfect for this), and any kind of oil. Degrease a pad of 0000 steel wool with acetone. To remove pitting and keep the barrel profile intact requires skill with a file, and that requires hands-on training. Let them cool down as you take a closer look at the bluing effect. To remove them, you put the action/barrel into a sturdy vise (padded with soft jaws) and you use a piece of brass rod to drift the sights out. It is always essential to remove all oils from metals you want to blue, even if the cold blueing solution claims you dont need to do so. Try it on some unimportant pieces first. Bluing may be applied by immersing steel parts in a solution of potassium nitrate, sodium hydroxide, and water heated to the boiling point, 275310F (135154C) depending on the recipe. NaOH will quickly and completely dissolve aluminum. ", https://mgs.edu/making-chisels-skips-newsletter/, http://www.technologystudent.com/equip1/heat1.htm. Just dont. Oil and grease really are the enemy because youre trying to (literally) corrode the metal. Technically speaking, bluing is more or less a conversion of red iron oxide (Fe2O3) to black iron oxide (Fe3O4).