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Spinning There are two basic ways of drafting fiber by hand or by machine: worsted draft or woolen draft. And now for the tricky, but crucial, part of yarn substitution: making sure you hit gauge. What you do need is to know what youre doing if you plan to change things up. Congratulations on shedding light on these two styles of spinning that are so confusing for many spinners. They also tend to have less memory. This can get a bit tricky if youre substituting because you have a fiber allergy. January 2018 That little strand of silk-mohair yarn is important, because the mohair fibers catch on each other and lend stability to the fabric. Because woolen-spun yarns retain lots of air pockets during the production process, they knit up into very insulating and warm garments. That would be worsted-style shopping. See, what I didnt understand at the time was the fine art of yarn substitution. Thedoffer, a large cylinder at the delivery end of the carder, then relays the batt into acondenser, which splits the batt into several thin, untwisted strands calledropingorslivers(sly-vers). Eg: gabardine. This is the type of information that makes a knitter more knowledgable about our purchases. Copyright 2014-2023. Wool fabrics can be classified by their production technology the worsted and woolen one. *Membership cannot be purchased with Gift Cards. May 2019 Shop Talk Yarn stashes are nice, but at some point, I become a yarn collector instead of a knitter if I never get projects done due to errors in purchases. An extreme example is angora or mohair. By clicking Accept, you consent to the use of ALL the cookies. In this blog, we will take a closer look at worsted and woolen yarns and what sets them apart. April 2022 How satisfying! August 2013 If you divide the length of the yarn by the weight, you get a ratio. The dead giveaway of the woolen-ness of Empire is the blip of fiber sticking out. You can also go to the (Ravelry link) yarn ideas tab to see what yarns other people have substituted. Wuthering Heights Tom Hardy is the yarn that ran out when you were an inch from the finish. Thank you!!! November 2022 In stockinette its *really* obvious. Oh great now Im going to spend all day weeping for Wuthering Heights Tom Hardy and wondering what kind of yarn he was. A little history on worsted wool. Within woollen preparation the fibre is spun straight . The Classic British Wool yarn line is available in four thicknesses and fifteen heathered colorways. Theres also Wuthering Heights Tom Hardy, just saying. Worsted yarns are spun from fibers that have been combed; they are lightweight; these yarns are used for knitting. Woolen spun yarn is known to be light as air, durable, warm and lofty. What is Worsted Wool? 4.5 sts / inch on size US 8. Note: Notice how the individual plies of Arbor and Vale (shown above, top to bottom) appear more compacted and how the fibers in each single are oriented in the same direction. July 2020 Drop me a line any time. This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. Wrap your yarn firmly, but not tightly, around the item for at least a few inches, and then set it down next to the ruler. Because there is less air trapped in the spun fibers, the resulting yarn is dense, smooth and resistant to abrasion. Thank you, thank you, thank you. So the semi-worsted spinning gets you more yardage since the yarn is less . January 2016 I really appreciate you using Tom Hardy as an analogy. It seems that I am and have produced a woollen yarn. May 2022 The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for anonymous statistical purposes. The choice truly only depends on what you enjoy working with, what kind of fabric you want to achieve, how you plan on wearing the finished object, or all of the above. Now I also know the difference when spinning too. Worsted is smooth (using combed fibers), while woolen is more rustic. Id assumed it was me, but now I wonder if its my yarn? The table below lists some of their properties: September 2016 I sort of knew all of this but your explanation and illustrations pulled my knowledge all together. This is what is meant by the gorgeous phenomenon of blooming. As such, for our woolen-spun yarns, the strands of roping are simply loaded on a spinning frame, where they are concurrently drafted, twisted, and wound onto bobbins to become singles for plying. When you touch worsted yarn, it tends to feel heavier and very even, and it will be shiny if the fibers in the yarn are inclined that way. This cookie is set by GDPR Cookie Consent plugin. BTW, I made a lovely airy lacy quite-warm shawl using reclaimed 100% cashmere of about cobweb weight, that I believe was woolen spun. Countryside Our BWC Wisconsin Woolen Spun yarns are two-ply in both the fingering and worsted weight and are available in 100 gram skeins. . 2.83 yds Holland Sherry WOOL Fabric Luxury worsted Suiting 10 oz Plaid 102" BTP. The most important thing when choosing a yarn substitute is to pick a new yarn that is approximately the same thickness, or weight, as the recommended yarn. What a fascinating series of posts by Ms. Moreno! Woolen yarns are made of carded yarns and are fuzzy and bulky. As an example, aran weight worsted spun wool is going to be heavier than aran weight woolen spun wool, so there will be fewer yards per 100 grams of the worsted spun wool . Understanding helps tremendously and the side by side swatches were terrific. lovely wool yarn selection from Jagger Spun. The yarn is spun using the woolen process. Fine worsted wool is even seen in clothing for athletics. The sweater turned out too big and too heavy, so it drooped until it hung from my shoulders like a circular tablecloth with a hole in the middle. Thank you so much Katie. I once had it explained very simply: Woolen spun yarns are like bedhair in the morning - going every which way, and worsted spun are like hair after it's been combed. Thanks. Be respectful. All Rights Reserved. Woolen spun is traditionally spun from carded rolags (this was the job small children carried out). Generally speaking, plant-based materials will be heavier than animal fibers. April 2015 The woolen yarn fabrics do not hold the crease well and are less durable than worsted yarns. Ill be referring back to it next time Im looking for yarn for a specific project. We use cookies on our website to give you the most relevant experience by remembering your preferences and repeat visits. The cookie is set by the GDPR Cookie Consent plugin and is used to store whether or not user has consented to the use of cookies. Many people ask us about the process and the type of yarn we produce. This website uses cookies to improve your experience while you navigate through the website. There is a great site called yarnsub which compares most if not all of these elements and suggests alternatives. The Empire is more uneven looking, a little airier as well as fuzzy. Woolen spun yarns will bloom more after washing and are lighter and airier. The term 'Worsted' doesn't only define the yarn weight, it also indicates a wool processing method. The difference between Woolen Spun and Worsted Spun. August 2022 Yeah, were talking that level of soft. However, you may visit Cookie Settings to provide controlled consent. Copyright2023Golden Peak Media. Hours: Mon-Fri from 9am-4pm MT Designers chose yarns, in part, based on the fiber content, knowing that fiber content will affect the appearance of the garment. Oh my gosh! 28 minutes. Unfortunately you cant tell from the ballband unless the manufacturer has included that information. The primary reason for this is that the wool yarn normally used for these fabrics was produced using a special "worsted" spinning technique that better aligns the fibers. So far, all the colors have been created by dyeing the fiber in 16 vibrant solids, then blending them, two or . We consider it one of the finest worsted weight yarns out there. A beautifully written, lucid and illuminating lesson, and several fascinating aspects to the distinctions. Eg: tweed. May 2015 When it comes to choosing between a woolen-spun yarn and a worsted-spun yarn, there really is no right or wrong answer. Worsted yarns contrast with woollen yarns, which are carded rather than combed and fuzzier than worsted yarns. You are however spinning long draw, which is a more woolen type of draft and will be trapping more air in the yarn. The parallel alignment and uniform length of fibers prepared in a worsted-style also means that less fiber ends stick out in the yarn, making the bloom much less pronounced in these yarns when compared to woolen-spun yarns. This information is just wrong as to pilling. Its easy to see whats going on with the yarn and knitting in the samples. Not every woolen-spun yarn has a rougher surface, and not every worsted yarn is smooth. Woolen fabrics are spun from short fibers, while worsted wool is made from longer and fine ones. In all the photos, the left swatch of the pair is the worsted spun yarn and the right swatch is woolen spun. The yarn is less hairy than worsted yarns. April 2021 When I first started knitting, I bought a Debbie Bliss magazine that had this adorable, lightweight top for summer. Worsted wool fabric is typically used in the making of tailored garments such as suits, as opposed to woollen wool, which is used for knitted items such as sweaters. Our BWC Wisconsin Woolen Spun yarns are two-ply in both the fingering and worsted weight and are available in 100 gram skeins. I finally understand what worsted and wollen mean. This approach makes for a lofty, lightweight yarn that traps warmth. January 2015 To read the applicable privacy policy, please. Thank you for your thoughtful and careful drafting, and especially the photos! June 2022 So much yarn, so many choices the Lust Factor will now have a bit more knowledge backing it up! 'Carding' is one of the processes which untangles the woo. Sometimes, even after all that, you still might not be sure whether the yarn you want to substitute will work for your project, check out other peoples projects. Please note: Have you ever pet a puppy in that super soft spot at the base of its ears? Woolen spinning also works best on wool with shorter staple lengths, such that if you pull on the yarn from several inches away, the yarn can indeed break. Goodness, though, was it ever the wrong choice for this one. This video is a brief overview of some different spinning techniques I've learned to spin worsted or woolen yarn and how that affects the outcome of your yar. Look at the picture that accompanies this section. Fabrics created with worsted spun yarns, on the other hand, will generally have better drape, smoothness, and stitch definition. Many commercial yarns are spun in this way, particularly sock yarns. Really, it's totally personal preference. Maybe you have moral or ethical concerns about the recommended yarn company, or maybe you just dont like the recommended yarn, or maybe youve got another yarn you really like that youd rather use instead. The difference between worsted-spun and woolen-spun yarns lies in how the fiber is handled before the actual spinning. A worsted spun yarnwhere fibers are smoothed and air is squeezed out while it's twisted into yarnmakes a heavier yarn, since the crimp doesn't have much space to move around. Ive put off learning more about the structure and the why and have just let myself be lead around MLYS making choices that just add to the stash but may not be right for the intended project. Your best bet is always to know how to make the substitution yourself. Woolen spun yarns are in the production of sweaters, carpets, tweeds. That wasnt the silhouette I was aiming for. Dyed: United States. They are: Woolen and Worsted. Try to get your WPI to match as closely as possible to avoid that problem. WPI stands for wraps per inch. I think it also helps to think of the woolen spun as grippier (as in grips more) since all the fibres are not tamed into a smooth yarn but are sort of sticking out all over. This was the clearest explanation regarding the what, why, and how of woolen vs. worsted spun I have come across. April 2017 The best article ever on this subject. You can read more about the ranges of WPI for each yarn weight on the Craft Yarn Councils website. A drumcarder can also be used. Great article and most helpful. This means, how many individual strands were used to form the thread. They may not be able to get to yours quickly, or even at all. They are also stronger, more durable, and less prone to pilling. Worsted spun is smooth, while woolen spun is a little more rustic. Another very important factor is the ply. This means that they'll have very clear stitch definition, as opposed to woollen spun yarns which have a softer stitch definition. Carding, and the rolling in to a rolag creates a spiral of wool fibres wrapping round the tube. The rub rollernext turns the sliver into roving and adds a false twist. This definitely affects your choice for a project that will be steeked, but also for fair isle or intarsia colourwork where the woolen spun will fill in the gaps between stitches of different colours. Yarn tends to come in hanks, balls, skeins, cakes, and cones. These cookies will be stored in your browser only with your consent. It makes yarn that is smooth and dense. PHONE: 1-208-452-4948 Thank you for this insightful article. The one on the left is woolen spun, and the one on the right is worsted spun. Long draw is for making a woolen-spun yarn. Youll see two different yarns, one pale pink and one a creamy color. Woolen yarns are the equivalent of cotton carded yarns, and worsted yarns are the wool equivalent of combed cotton yarns, they get the extra process to make them higher quality. But opting out of some of these cookies may affect your browsing experience. She wrote the book Yarnitecture: A Knitters Guide to Spinning: Building Exactly the Yarn You Want so she could use all of the fiber words. This article is so well written and I love how you explain how the type of yarn will effect the finished product. Thank you! May 2016 The fiber is compressed and smoothed, and air is squeezed out as the twist is applied to the fiber. I'm glad it was helpful to you! And I also now understand my past failures a little better haha! Take a look at the picture in this section. Spun In Maine. If you want knife-edge stitch definition, go for a worsted drafted yarn. May 2021 Dogs Worsted yarn = worsted prep + worsted spin Semi worsted = woolen prep + worsted spin Woolen = woolen prep + woolen spin Semi woolen = worsted prep + woolen spin Examples of worsted spinning would be short forward and short backward drafting. Youve just figured out your yarns WPI. The bloom also means that woolen-spun yarns can be generously forgiving and able to balance out tension or stitch irregularity in knitting. Never discount the yarn lust factor with yarn. There are myriad ways to prepare and spin fleece and fiber into yarn. I was moving too quickly on that one, clearly. February 2018 But if the pattern calls for yarn from an indie dyer or one of the smaller manufacturers, it can be pretty hit or miss (I just checked for several of my favorites that I've used in designs this year, and nothing). June 2019 Which do you like and want to work with? But just to make things tricky, it's entirely possible for a yarn to be both woollen and worsted, generally when a previously spun woollen yarn is re-spun using the worsted technique, creating a so-called semi-woollen or semi-worsted yarn. In fact, I rarely do. Its important to know WPI because there is room for variation within each of the yarn weight categories. Nature Spun Worsted. This Targhee-Columbia wool blend comes from Wyoming sheep, and the fiber is fleece-dyed (dyed before spinning), which is made visible in Shelters thirty-two heathered colorways, especially the darker ones with lighter hues intermixed. We also use third-party cookies that help us analyze and understand how you use this website. That ratio helps you understand how thick the yarn is. You explained it so well. Hairs are aligned to be parallel, instead of being rolled up to perpendicular to the direction of the yarn. How about giving us more names of worsted and woolen yarns currently available? Instead of carding the fibres they're combed. While woolen spinning is all about trapping air, worsted does the exact opposite. Today, Im talking about the last one. Select an optionAlabamaAlaskaArizonaArkansasCaliforniaColoradoConnecticutDelawareDistrict Of ColumbiaFloridaGeorgiaHawaiiIdahoIllinoisIndianaIowaKansasKentuckyLouisianaMaineMarylandMassachusettsMichiganMinnesotaMississippiMissouriMontanaNebraskaNevadaNew HampshireNew JerseyNew MexicoNew YorkNorth CarolinaNorth DakotaOhioOklahomaOregonPennsylvaniaRhode IslandSouth CarolinaSouth DakotaTennesseeTexasUtahVermontVirginiaWashingtonWest VirginiaWisconsinWyomingArmed Forces (AA)Armed Forces (AE)Armed Forces (AP). I am so excited to have found this article today. Note: We will specifically explain the commercial woolen- and worsted-spinning methods employed by the mills we work with. Our most popular workhorse yarn is the Heritage two-ply, but if you want even more wear, the Tuffy is an 80/20 blend of wool and nylon. Heritage comes in forty-five colors of the rainbow, including plenty of neutrals and heathers. After being spun into yarn, our worsted-spun yarns are dyed in the skein. February 2021 February 2017 However, the cost of carded woolen yarn is lower. Some have a naturally rougher surface. The compression of a worsted draft puts more individual fibers into a length of yarn, making it heavier. That means theyre good for colorwork and lace projects where you really want your stitches to pop. April 2016 Domestic wool combed top from Poppy Flower Fibers, 4 oz. March 2014 They are both delightful, yet different. Can you spot the other difference? Ok, first up lets look at how the fibres are running in to the yarn. Worsted yarns are smooth and dense, they tend to drape well and be much more lustrous. January 2019 Woolen yarn is dense and is often made from the shorter strands of a sheep's fleece. Theyre lofty yarns, so they make lightweight, absorbent fabrics, Elsa Hallowell says, which feel cooler when its warm and very cozy when its cold. www.wool-clothing.com, Content: 100% pure virgin wool Put-Up: 170yd [155 m]/1 3/4 oz [50 g] Construction: 2-ply Care: Handwash gently in lukewarm water Recommended Gauge: 24 sts = 4 (10cm) on sizes 35 (3.253.75mm) needles, Flywheel is a sportweight version of Harrisvilles well-loved Watershed. Woollen yarns (upper) have a softer, more diffuse look whereas worsted yarns (lower) make very distinct stitch patterns. If your allergy is very specific (e.g., you cant do wool, but you can do alpaca, or you cant handle linen but youre fine with cotton or bamboo), itll be easier to substitute than if your allergy is more broad (e.g., you cant do any animal fibers at all and have to use plant fibers, or vice versa). Whats more, the acrylic content made it much lighter and softer than many other 100% cotton yarns. I am going to print this and use it, because this made me feel empowered by actual knowledge - my yarn purchases may take a bit longer as I review all of the yarns characteristics, but I have a much better sense of what I am doing! Thats especially true if youre knitting a small, close-fitting garment like a sock or mitt. October 2020 Thanks for sharing. Now that you know about how woolen and worsted yarns behave in knitted fabric, youll be able to choose the perfect pattern to complement your new yarn love. When a yarn is spun from a pile of fibers into a string, its turned a little bit as its stretched out to make a tubular shape. Woolen yarns are the ones you might find bits of hay in. Because of the density, a typical worsted yarn is thinner than a typical woolen yarn of the same ypp. I just started stranded colorwork and this with your swatches is a good resource. This yarn delivers on every account. May 2013, All It's much faster to spin wool because the fibres are not tidied up before you begin spinning. This post of part of my Spinning with a Purpose series, sharing swatches I've created for a. As a last resort, if the designer has published their contact information, consider reaching out to them if you have questions about yarn substitution. October 2015 Scouring,the process in which fleece is cleaned, removes dirt and excess lanolin from the raw wool. Its a great way to see how things might turn out before you start working on your own projects. Use top to spin semi worsted. www.brooklyntweed.com, Content: 100% Clun Forest wool Put-Up: 185yd [169 m]/3.8 oz [107 g] Construction: 3-ply Care: Handwash with low agitation; dry flat Recommended Gauge: 18 sts = 4 (10 cm) on size 7 (4.5 mm) needles, Solitude Wool hand-picks its fleece from small U.S. farms and then has yarn spun at different mills around the country. Folks wait their turn to enter the booth and shop in a controlled way. That makes them a great choice for items that are going to get a lot of wear, like socks and sweaters. The distinctions between these has been a mystery to me until now. Keep up with her exploits at jillianmoreno.com. This was a grat posting. Very good, educational description. But its so difficult to choose between the two Tom Hardys. Any suggestions? The worsted spinning method creates yarns that are smooth and durable, with superior stitch definition. Choose from twenty rich rustic heathers and support the Hydropower Project with your purchase. You can see the difference when its wound into a ball, and in the strand. Lisas List: 10 Reasons Knitting Is Better Than Dating, Spurned Gifts: When Knit & Crochet Gifts Went Wrong. These cookies will be stored in your browser only with your consent. very smartly elaborated the article. You can write a comment on the yarns Ravelry page suggesting that drafting info be added. January 2023 Woolen yarn consists of fibers of varying length that are carded so the fibers are not parallel. Before beginning the process of spinning our woolen-spun yarns, the fiber is first cleaned and then dyed in the fleece. The woolen singles were a little thicker and less consistent, so this isn't surprising. Just like cotton worsted is not always better than woolen. $43.99 + $10 . Thank you for there explanation. Instead of carding the fibres they're combed. Try Ravelry and yarnsub.com, or phone the manufacturer (or ask your LYS owner to). July 2021 Thanks. Your book will be one of the few in my library, as I want those that provide me the knowledge to choose and knit wisely. Categories Knitting Design, Knitting Tips and Tricks, Home The Knitters Guide to Yarn Substitution, Stretch Into a Cozy Fall Wardrobe with the Pandiculation Cowl, Yarn Substitution for the Knit Sweater: A Designers Perspective. Best article Ive read on this subject, and Ive been looking for a clear one for about a year. Many commercial yarns are spun with the worsted style. October 2018 When spinning the fiber the long draw or medium draw technique is used to allow the fiber to wrap upon itself while . Left: woolen spun yarn | Right: worsted-spun yarn b) Single ply, 2-ply, 4-ply, and 8-ply. The cookies is used to store the user consent for the cookies in the category "Necessary". It will help a lot in future project planning. Thanks for explaining the difference, it's interesting to see those subtle contrasts between the stitching! September 2021 May 2018 Interesting point I would like to know that too! December 2018 October 2021 You might be able to get a good sense for what the project would look like in your chosen yarn or get inspiration for another yarn to use. Before you go subbing in your new yarn, though, think about the following issues. The worsted process means mixing all short hairs out of fabric. Thank you for an excellent and informative article, Jill! Its knit using one strand of fingering-weight wool yarn and one strand of lace-weight silk-mohair yarn. The worsted yarn will be a little bit stronger whereas the woolen yarn will break a little bit easier. This carded wool from the initial fiber preparation is prepared further in a worsted-style through combing. Different fibers behave in different ways. August 2021 This helped me understand the difference and will help me make better choices when picking a yarn to knit certain patterns. Worsted is a high-quality type of wool yarn. This wool should be spun using the long draft. This is the fun part about being a knitter who knows their yarn; its all up to you. Thank you for explaining what it actually means. Thank you for this lucid explanation and the swatches to illustrate it. Heres what woolen and worsted mean to your knitted sweaters and accessories. Shelter is Brooklyn Tweed's first yarn, and one of the most well-loved - a worsted weight, woolen-spun Targhee-Columbia wool, sourced, dyed, and spun entirely in the USA. Does it make that much difference to your gauge? Note: Notice how the individual plies of Loft, Quarry, and Shelter (shown above, top to bottom) appear wispy and how the fibers in each single are oriented in every direction and nestled together in a disorderly manner. Theyre the same weight, but theyre not made the same way. Ive wondered lately why some yarn I loved in my LYS seemed perfect, but when swatched, especially in garter stitch, looked so shiny, something I didnt want. On Ravelry, you can go to the (Ravelry link) Projects tab on the pattern page to see other versions of the hat knit by other people. One method is not better or worse than the other just different. Then you compare that to the ratio of another yarn with a similar fiber content. March 2016 I hope this will help you skip some of the hiccups! Examples of Woolen Spun:Cascade Eco+ Merino DKCascade BFL, Examples of Worsted Spun (not a complete list):Malabrgio RiosCascade 220 Superwash. You are the Rachel Maddow of yarn, delving in at a granular level, exploring every detail, and explaining it all with an engaging writing style drenched in clarity. February 2022 The photos were such a vivid illustration of the difference between these two types of drafting and their results for your knitting. That meant the hat could be knit at a much looser gauge than I would normally use for a fingering + lace combo. Worsted wools are slick when woven, woolen wools are knitted, crocheted, or woven into softer, fluffier fabric, or fulled fabric. If youre making socks or colorwork, though, or working on a project that requires clear stitch definition, you should pay extra attention to how your yarn is spun. and now the skies are clear, the the clouds have drifted away, and the sun is shining! So what difference does it make, why bother to think about spinning technique and processing type before spinning? This bulky weight blend of 80% acrylic and 20% wool offers the triple crown yarn benefits: it's machine washable and dryable, has the warmth and comfort of wool, and works up quickly. Its easier to just add more rows than to recalculate the width of a garment. It makes yarn that is lofty and irregular. November 2021 On the other hand, worsted yarn is spun by combing fibers. Worsted yarn, made in the USA.